Plant Care
Airplants (tillandsia)
º Provided the atmosphere is not too dry they can survive with water misting and the occasional bath.If you are growing them indoors and the air is dry, you will need (at minimum) to submerge the plant in water for 2-3 hours about every two weeks.
º Never plant in soil. Give them bright, filtered light.
º Protect them from frosts.
º In a shaded-house or unheated home, you can use a soaking mist once or twice a week in summer, once a month in cooler weather.
º You can fertilize by adding a pinch of Bromeliad or Orchid fertilizer to your mister.
Succulents - echeveria types
º Like many succulents, echeverias require a large amount of sunlight to properly develop. Place your plant in an area that receives approximately six hours of direct light per day. The shape of your echeveria is a good indicator as to whether or not it is receiving appropriate sunlight, as it will elongate or stretch toward the closest light source if sunlight is inadequate. Consider moving your echeveria outdoors during the warmer summer months.
º Echeverias are highly sensitive to overwatering, which can cause root rot and attract mealybugs. When watering, thoroughly soak the soil, then allow it to dry completely before watering again.
º Most echeveria plants do not require repotting very often. If you notice your plant has outgrown its container, gently remove it and clear away soil from its roots before placing it in a new container with fresh cactus potting mix. Spring is the best time to repot plants in the Echeveria genus, as it is the beginning of their growing season.
Phalaenopsis orchid
Watering:
º Often orchids come planted in containers filled with chipped bark for drainage which leads to confusion on how to best water the plants. An easy method is to place the plant in a sink or tub. Run warm water over the plant, bark and aerial roots in a series of 3 or 4 drenches over a 10 minute period allowing the water to be gradually absorbed. Allow the water to drain completely before placing it on a saucer in a well lit location but avoiding direct sun.
º Aerial roots will turn from a dull silver or white to a pale green color when you have applied enough water. Under normal home temperatures waterings should not be needed more than once a week.
º Misting an orchid usually does not provide enough moisture under indoor home growing conditions. Pebble trays placed underneath pots can increase the gen- eral humidity around plants; however don’t flood these trays or the roots will stay overly wet and may rot.
º Low humidity and too little water will result in wrinkled leaves. Phals do not have water storage pseudobulbs as many orchids do.
Temperature and Light:
º Phalaenopsis orchids do well under normal room temperatures with indirect light from an east or west window. During the short days in the winter they can even be moved to direct light or placed in a south window. Orchids can be placed in an interior room or on an office desk if placed under a grow light.
º Plants receiving the proper amount of light will have light green leaves. Low light conditions produces leaves that are dark green and feel very stiff. Under very high light the leaves will develop a pink or reddish color along the margins and will appear yellow green or almost yellow.
Fertilizing:
º Phalaenopsis orchids benefit from light fertilization, however over feeding your plants will often result in lush growth at the expense of flowers.
º As a general rule fertilize actively growing and flowering plants every third or fourth watering with a commercial orchid fertilizer according to label directions.
º Skip fertilization during the cooler temperatures and lower light intensity of the winter months.
Poinsettia (indoors)
º Keep soil moist but never soggy
º Provide bright light
º Feed weekly with liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength
Narcissus/Paper Whites
º Keep soil moist but never soggy
º Bright indirect light (65º is ideal temperature)
º No need to fertilize or prune. These blooms will last a couple weeks.
Green Plants:
Spatiphyllum (Peace Plant)
Watering
º The Peace Lily or Spathiphyllum is an easy indoor plant to manage. Let the top of the soil dry a little but generally keep it evenly moist and try watering once a week until you see what it tells you by its weepy cues. The leaves will droop if they're thirsty but will bounce back afterward. Use lukewarm, filtered, or bottled water, and flush the plant. These plants are sensitive to chemicals, so if using tap water, let it set out for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
When adding moisture, avoid watering the crown of the plant. Instead, water a long the outside edges of the container. This approach will prevent lodging water between the stems and eventually rotting. Bottom watering is also an option and can get water to its roots faster. Place the container in a tub or sink filled with the water, as mentioned earlier, and let it sit for 15 minutes. The root system will soak upwards, penetrating the soil and roots.
Allow the water to drain fully before placing it back in a decorative pot if it's in a liner pot. Repeat this watering schedule when the Peace Lily's topsoil gets dry again. Slow down the watering schedule in the winter to every 10-14 days depending on the environment it’s in. This time of year, it is not growing as much and in a resting period.
Add humidity to it by spritzing several times a week and adding a humidifier or
pebble tray to the container's bottom.
Light preference
º The Peace Lily plant will produce the flower-like spathes and spadix in moderate indirect sunlight. It can tolerate lower light, but it may not flower in the early spring or summer as usual. Northern and eastern exposure close to a window is optimum. They don't tolerate hot indirect sun in the afternoon or evening as it can burn the leaves.
Keep your Peace Lily away from cold air or drafts near windows or doors in colder climates. (Ideal temperatures: 65ºF-85ºF)
Monstera / Philodendron family
Watering
º Monsteras prefer soil that is lightly moist, and generally like to dry out a little bit between waterings. As epiphytes with aerial roots, they are sensitive to overwa- tering, so they don’t want to sit in soggy soil. Once the top 2 to 4 inches of the soil are dry, your plant might use a drink.
Pothos
º Plant pothos vines in well-drained potting soil. The only soil requirement for a pothos plant is good drainage, so any high quality, well-drained potting soil or potting mix will do the trick. For an even higher drainage capacity, try mixing perlite into your soil before planting.
º Provide pothos plants with bright indirect light. Pothos plants tolerate low-light conditions, but their leaf variegation may fade if they’re in the shade for too long. For thriving pothos plants with vibrant, variegated leaves, place them in bright indirect light. To avoid scorched or discolored leaves, make sure to keep pothos plants away from direct sunlight.
º Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. When the top inch of soil is dry, it's time for more water (be sure not to wait too long, or your plant’s leaves may begin to wilt). Keep watering your pothos until water seeps out from the pot's drainage holes. To avoid root rot caused by soggy soil, pour out the water that pools in the tray or dish under the pot. If you notice your plant has yellow leaves, it's likely a sign that you're overwatering.
º Use liquid houseplant fertilizer. Pothos plants can thrive without fertilizer, but fertilizing once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps maximize their growth.
º Keep temperatures moderate. Pothos plants grow best between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit with high levels of humidity similar to tropical environ ments. Don't fret if your air is on the drier side—even though they flourish in high humidity, pothos plants tolerate all humidity levels.
º Re-pot pothos plants occasionally. If your pothos plant is drooping no matter how often you water it, that's a sign it has become root-bound. Select a new container that is a couple of inches wider than the current pot, and re-pot the plant once its growing season begins in the spring.
º Prune your pothos plant to contain growth. As part of your regular pothos plant care regimen, prune off long vining stems directly above the joint where the leaf meets the stem. This stimulates new growth and keeps your plant's foliage full and bushy. It's worth noting that pruning isn't necessary if you prefer the look of long pothos vines—in this case, try letting your pothos vines climb up a nearby trellis or flow down naturally from a hanging basket.
º Watch out for mealybug infestations. Mealybugs are small, white insects that feed on pothos plant leaves and leave behind a powdery wax residue. If you spot signs of a mealybug infestation, treat your pothos plant with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.
Ponytail Palm
º Use well-draining soil. Similar to other succulents and desert plants, the ponytail palm is drought-tolerant and thrives in dry conditions. Use a potting mix specifi cally formulated for cacti and succulents.
º Use a porous pot. Whether you opt for terracotta or some other clay-based pot, porous materials help absorb excess water from the soil. Put your ponytail palm in a pot with a drainage hole at the bottom of the pot to ensure that water drains properly.
º Place a saucer under your pot. When it comes time to water your plant, a saucer underneath the pot will help catch excess water.
º Water sparingly but thoroughly. Overwatering can cause root rot, so allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings. When the soil is dry enough to be watered, soak the plant all the way through and dump any excess water that collects in the saucer.
º Keep your ponytail palm in a sunny spot. Ponytail palms require lots of bright light, ideally a mix of bright indirect light and full sun. You’ll know the plant is getting too much sun if the leaves develop brown tips.
º Apply fertilizer in the spring. Fertilize indoor plants in the spring with a formula designed specifically for succulents and cacti.
º Keep the plant warm. Ponytail palms do best in room temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the plant away from windows if outdoor tem- peratures fall below 50 degrees.
º Watch out for spider mites. Spider mites may show up on the undersides of ponytail palm leaves. You can easily wipe them away with a cloth dipped in a solution of water and dish soap.
Bonsai Ficus
Location:
Ficus can be grown indoors, close to a sunny window, or outdoors year-round in warmer climates. Direct morning sunlight is preferable; direct afternoon sun can sometimes burn the delicate leaves. Ficus trees don’t like cold drafts and, are not fond of sudden changes. Make moves gradually. Use a humidity tray under your bonsai to keep humidity levels up. Ficus that live outdoors should be protected from frost and/or freezing temperatures.
Watering:
Bonsai trees live in small pots and their world dries out much quicker than plants in the ground or in bigger pots, so close attention should be paid to watering. Check and water your bonsai every day. Striking a balance between not enough water and too much water can be a bit tricky but is very important. Water thoroughly and deeply when it needs water and let it catch its breath before watering again. An old bonsai watering trick is to place the entire pot in a sink of water an inch or two deep and let the water absorb from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Another favorite way to know if it needs watering is to lift it. You can get a sense for whether it needs watering by its weight.
An inexpensive moisture meter takes the guesswork out of watering. Water slowly so it absorbs into the dirt, otherwise the water will run all over your table. Mist occasionally with a spray bottle too. It helps take the burden off of the roots especially when it’s very hot and dry out. We pot our bonsai trees specifically to drain well, so it’s almost impossible to over water.
Dracaena
LIGHT:
Your Dracaena Marginata prefers medium indirect sunlight but can survive in low light situations. Bleached leaves with dry brown spots usually indicate the plant is getting too much light. Pale leaves, slow growth, and small new leaves indicate it is not getting enough light.
WATER:
Overwatering causes root rot and is the main reason a Dracaena Marginata plant dies. Water your Marginata well and allow the top 75% of the soil to dry before watering again.
HUMIDITY:
Your Dracaena Marginata will do well in average humidity environments but will appreciate regular misting.
TEMPERATURE:
Marginatas like comfortable room temperatures between 65-80 degrees.
FOOD:
Feed once a month during the spring and summer with a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants. No fertilizer is necessary during the winter when plant growth naturally slows.
TOXICITY:
Dracaena Marginata leaves are toxic to pets and humans. Typically, ingestion will cause mouth and stomach irritation with possible vomiting.
Aglaonema
Your Aglaonema prefers bright to medium indirect light. It can adapt to low light, but the growth will slow. Direct morning sunlight is fine for this plant, but avoid prolonged exposure to direct sun which can scorch the leaves.
WATER:
Water your Aglaonema when 50% of the soil volume is dry. Water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer.
HUMIDITY:
Your Aglaonema enjoys extra humidity. Use a pebble tray, place a humidifier nearby, or group plants together to create a humid microclimate.
TEMPERATURE:
Your Aglaonema prefers temperatures between 65-75°F. Avoid drafty areas and temperatures below 60°F in the winter.
FOOD:
Feed your Aglaonema monthly during the spring and summer months with a general-purpose houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. No fertilizer is needed during the winter months when growth naturally slows.
TOXICITY:
This plant is considered mildly toxic to pets and humans.
ADDITIONAL CARE:
Aglaonema prefer to be slightly root-bound and will not need to be repotted more than once every 2-3 years. Choose a pot only about 1” bigger in diameter when repotting. If you notice the pink coloration fading on your Aglaonema, try placing the plant in a brighter location with indirect light.
Schefflera
Your Schefflera prefers bright indirect light. It can also tolerate medium and low light, but growth will slow. Direct sun in the early morning and late afternoon is fine, but avoid exposure to the harsh midday sun which can scorch the leaves.
WATER:
Water when 75% of the soil volume is dry. Water slowly, allowing it to soak into the soil, until it flows freely through the drainage hole. Discard any excess water that accumulates in the saucer.
HUMIDITY:
Your Schefflera prefers a humid environment. Add a pebble tray or place a humidifier nearby.
TEMPERATURE:
This plant prefers temperatures between 50° – 80°F.
FOOD:
Feed once every month during the spring and summer with an all-purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. No fertilizer is needed in the fall and winter months when growth naturally slows.
TOXICITY:
This plant is considered toxic to pets and humans if ingested.
ADDITIONAL CARE:
Prune your Schefflera regularly to keep it small in size or neatly shaped. Use a clean pair of pruning shears and never remove more than 30% of the plant at a time—any more may shock it. Rotate your plant on a regular basis to promote even, balanced growth.
Neanthe Bella Palm
LIGHT
Your Bamboo Palm prefers bright indirect light. Keep out of direct sunlight as it may scorch the fronds. This palm does not do well in low light.
WATER
Water your Bamboo Palm when the soil volume is 50-75% dry. Water the plant until you see water flow freely into the saucer, making sure to discard the excess water. The roots may rot if they are exposed to standing water or extremely damp soil for too long.
HUMIDITY
Your Bamboo Palm will thrive in average household humidity. However, it will appreciate added humidity by using a pebble tray or placing a humidifier nearby.
TEMPERATURE
Your palm prefers room temperatures between 65-85°F.
FOOD
Fertilize your Palm once a month during spring and summer with a general houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
TOXICITY
Your Palm is non-toxic to humans and pets.
ADDITIONAL CARE
Look out for a common problem called ‘tipping’ when the tips of the leaves dry out and turn brown. The most common cause is tap water, which contains salts, chlorine, fluoride, and other elements that may be harmful in excess. To prevent this, you can use distilled water or rainwater. You can flush the soil a few times a year if you start to notice salt buildup in the form of a white crust-like cover on the top of the soil. Do this by removing that top later of soil and slowly but generously watering your Palm with about four times your pot’s volume of water. Allow water to completely drain from the pot and empty the saucer of any excess water before placing your Palm back in its place.
Bird's Nest Fern
LIGHT
Your Bird’s Nest Fern will do best in medium to low light. The more light it receives, the more the leaves will crinkle and the less light, the flatter the leaves will be. Keep in mind, too much light or extended periods of direct sunlight will cause the fronds on the fern to get a pale bleached color.
WATER
Water when the top 25% of the soil is dry. When watering, water only the soil – not the leaves. Water accumulating in the crown of your plant could lead to bacterial growth and potential leaf rot. Water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer.
HUMIDITY
This plant likes a humid environment, like a bathroom or kitchen. Mist often.
TEMPERATURE
This fern will enjoy a warm area, preferably between 68-80 degrees, so maintain indoor temperatures above 60 degrees. Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature changes.
FOOD
Feed once a month during the spring and summer with a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants.
TOXICITY
Bird’s Nest Ferns are non-poisonous plants and safe for humans, dogs and cats.
ADDITIONAL CARE
Regularly remove any dead fronds from the plant to encourage healthy new growth. Cut stems at the soil line with clean, sharp shears.
Crocodile Fern
LIGHT
Your Crocodile Fern will do best in bright indirect to low light. A northern or eastern window provides the best light exposure. Turn the plant once or twice each month to encourage even growth.
WATER
Water when the top 25% of the soil is dry. Water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer.
HUMIDITY
Your Button Fern requires an environment with higher humidity, making it the perfect bathroom or kitchen plant. Throughout the dryer times of the year, use a pebble tray, a humidifier, or frequent misting to help boost humidity. A kitchen or bathroom is an ideal environment for your Crocodile Fern, as these areas are naturally higher in humidity.
TEMPERATURE
This fern will enjoy a warm area, preferably between 68-80 degrees, so maintain indoor temperatures above 60 degrees. Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature changes.
FOOD
Use a general houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength once a month during spring and summer months. Make sure the soil is thoroughly damp before fertilizing–never apply fertilizer to dry soil.
TOXICITY
Crocodile Ferns are non-poisonous plants and safe for humans, dogs, and cats.
ADDITIONAL CARE
Trim off crowded fronds with clean, sharp shears to encourage airflow. This will help reduce the possibility of fungal infections
Lavender
LIGHT
Your Lavender plant requires 6-8 hours of bright light to full sun per day. If grown indoors, place on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light.
WATER
Water your Lavender plant when the soil is completely dry. Water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer.
HUMIDITY
Your Lavender plant prefers a humid environment. Mist often if grown indoors.
TEMPERATURE
60°-90° F
FOOD
Feed once every month during the spring and summer with a fertilizer for edible plants.
TOXICITY
Please note: Lavender is toxic to cats and dogs.
ADDITIONAL CARE
Cut your Lavender at any point to enjoy it. Cut from the top of the plant. New leaves will grow from that point. Do not worry about harming the plant, as trimming encourages new growth. When grown indoors, Lavender may not produce flowers, but you can use the leaves of the plant to flavor and add aroma to dishes just as you would the flowers. Please note: Lavender is toxic to cats and dogs
Rosemary
LIGHT
Your Rosemary requires 6-8 hours of bright light to full sun per day. If grown indoors, place on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light.
WATER
Allow your Rosemary plant’s soil to dry out between watering. Your plant is quite drought tolerant. Water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer.
HUMIDITY
If kept indoors, mist a few times per week.
TEMPERATURE
Rosemary will do best in temperatures between 60-90 degrees.
FOOD
Feed your Rosemary with a fertilizer for garden plants 1-2 times a month during spring and summer.
TOXICITY
Rosemary is non-toxic. However, it is meant to be eaten by humans and not pets.
ADDITIONAL CARE
Cut your Rosemary at any point to enjoy it. Simply cut off the top of the plant, and it will regrow new leaves from that point. Do not worry about harming the plant, as cutting will actually encourage new growth.
Aloe Vera
LIGHT
Your Aloe plant prefers bright indirect light to full sun. Insufficient light will cause the leaves to droop downwards. If you don’t have a location with ideal lighting for your plant, use a Grow Light!
WATER
Water your Aloe Vera when the soil volume is 100% dry. Water thoroughly until it flows out of the drainage hole. Discard excess water to discourage root rot.
HUMIDITY
This plant does not require any extra humidity and can handle dry air.
TEMPERATURE
Your Aloe will appreciate temperatures between 65-75°F.
FOOD
The Aloe Vera does not need to be fertilized. However, if you wish to add some use a cactus or succulent liquid houseplant food only once a year in the spring.
TOXICITY
This plant is toxic to pets and humans if ingested.
ADDITIONAL CARE
The Aloe Vera can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. While the gel found in the leaves of an Aloe Vera is safe for your child’s skin, the “latex” (a thin layer of yellow juice found just below the outer skin of the aloe vera plant’s leaves) can cause indigestion and irritation if ingested.
Amaryllis
When you’re ready to start growing your amaryllis, you just need to keep the following things in mind:
- Pot your amaryllis in a large enough container using a loose potting mix.
- Make sure you find a sunny, warm, indoor home for your plant.
- Water your amaryllis on a regular weekly basis. The soil should remain moist.
- Turn the pot occasionally, to ensure that the stem stays straight, rather than reaching for the light and possibly becoming top-heavy as it grows.
- Look for a bloom after 4-8 weeks.
Caring for Your Amaryllis After It Blooms
Once your plant blooms, there are a few steps you need to keep in mind in order to care for it and keep it blooming year after year.
- After the flower buds have opened, bloomed, and withered it’s time to trim the stem. Use a sharp knife to cut the stalk so it’s about 6 inches above the bulb. Make sure you keep the leaves attached. They will continue to grow and are needed to nourish your plant through photosynthesis.
- As the weather starts to warm up, move your amaryllis, still in the pot, to an outdoor location where it will be exposed to filtered sunlight.
- Water your flower regularly until September.
- Bring your amaryllis pot inside, prune all the leaves, and store it in a cool (not cold) dark place (closet or basement) where it can be dormant for several months.
- In December bring your pot into the light, water it
- Keep the soil moist, and place it in a sunny window to restart the process!
- Remember to turn the pot occasionally as above.
Anthurium
LIGHT
Your Anthurium prefers bright indirect light, but can adapt to low light. The more light the plant receives, the more it will grow. It cannot tolerate extended periods of direct sunlight.
WATER
Water your Anthurium when 50% of the soil volume is dry. Water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer. Overwatering causes yellow leaf tips and underwatering causes brown leaf tips.
HUMIDITY
Your Anthurium loves a humid environment. Mist frequently or use a pebble tray or humidifier during the winter months when the air is dry.
TEMPERATURE
Your Anthurium prefers average to warm temperatures between 65-80°F. Avoid temperatures below 60°F. Keep your plant away from drafty areas and open vents.
FOOD
Feed every month in the spring and summer with a fertilizer high in nitrogen or one formulated for Anthurium plants. Dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength, and be sure to only apply fertilizer to damp soil.
TOXICITY
This plant is considered toxic to pets and humans if ingested.
ADDITIONAL CARE
Prune spent flowers as they appear. If you notice your Anthurium hasn’t bloomed during the growing season, it may need more light. Give your Anthurium a six-week rest during the winter. Lower temperatures, less light, and drier soil during this time will help your plant produce more flowers in the spring and summer.
Bromeliad
LIGHT
Your Bromeliad prefers indirect bright light like from a sunny eastern window. Too little light and the plant will not produce new pups and flowers, but too much light will burn the leaves.
WATER
Bromeliads are unique in that you water the center of the plant instead of the soil. Keep the center of the plant filled with water at all times – up to halfway. Every few weeks, empty any water, rinse and fill with fresh water. This helps prevent salt and mineral buildup. Only water the soil when it is 100% dry. When watering the soil, water until liquid flows through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and discard any water that has accumulated in the saucer.
HUMIDITY
This plant prefers a humid environment. Mist often, place a humidifier nearby, or use a pebble tray.
TEMPERATURE
Your bromeliad prefers temperatures between 60-80°F.
FOOD
Bromeliads are similar to air plants in that they take in nutrients through their foliage. Use a foliar fertilizer spray on your bromeliad 1-2 times a month during spring and summer. You can use a foliar spray made for orchids or air plants.
TOXICITY
Your Bromeliad is non-toxic and pet friendly. The leaves can cause contact dermatitis in some individuals, so consider wearing gloves when handling the plant.
ADDITIONAL CARE
If your plant is in ideal conditions it should begin growing pups off the side of the mother plant. Eventually, the mother plant will die off and be replaced by these pups. This is a natural part of their life cycle. These pups can either be cut off the mother plant and planted in a different pot, or they can stay in the same pot and you can cut the mother plant out of the pot.
Jasmine
Jasmine plants aren't difficult to care for, but they do require certain conditions for optimal blooms. They also grow quickly, which means they need to be pruned occasionally. The best time to prune jasmine is right after they finish blooming, which prevents you from removing developing flower buds. The following guidelines will help you grow healthy, vigorous jasmine plants.
Water
Jasmine plants are sensitive to dry soil, but also do not tolerate soggy soils. Maintain even moisture by allowing the top half-inch of soil to dry between waterings. Reduce water during the fall and winter months when plants are less active.
Soil
Give jasmine plants a porous, well-draining growing medium to keep roots healthy while providing adequate moisture. A soil mix containing bark, peat, or perlite will provide a good balance of moisture retention and drainage. When plants need repotting, do so in the spring, pruning roots as necessary.
Light
Jasmine needs six or more hours of strong light per day to thrive indoors. Bright, indirect light is ideal, such as near a north or east facing window. You can move plants outdoors for summer, gradually increasing the amount of sunlight they receive.
Temperature & Humidity
Jasmine plants like air temperatures on the cooler side, thriving between 60° to 75° Fahrenheit. Cool temperatures are particularly important in early fall for flower bud development (as discussed more thoroughly below). Jasmine is also sensitive to dry air, so avoid setting plants near radiators or air vents. To provide additional humidity, consider using a humidifier or setting plant pots on trays filled with gravel or pebbles and water. Just be sure to keep the water level below the top of the stones on the tray to prevent the soil from sitting in water.
Fertilizer
Feed plants every two to four weeks during the growing season, from spring through mid-summer, using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize plants in fall or winter when plants are less actively growing.